Showing posts with label Offroad. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Offroad. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 4 of 4

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 4. The Jeep locker is now installed and I checked it by raising one wheel with a jack and driving it right off the jack, with either tire. Some people said they were noisy going around corners, but I remembered an old trick. The trick is to use ultra-high performance fluid (like Royal Purple) and that is what greatly cuts down the clicking noise. It uses a racket mechanism for complete lock up of both tires in low traction situations. It is much better than posi-traction.

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 3 of 4

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 3. This install was more difficult because it was a Suzuki. The locker will totally lock both wheels in low traction situations only. A regular vehicle could not drive away with one tire off the ground. The tire off the ground would just spin and the vehicle would not move. With the locker, as soon a traction is lost, the internal racket locks and both rear tires have traction.

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 2 of 4

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 2 Before you buy a PowerTrax for a Samurai, SJ or Jimny In the USA a lot people are not familiar with the exact changes to the Suzuki SJ's when they changes from the SJ410 to the SJ413, In 1985 , they sold both and SJ410, which was a 1.0 liter engine with a 4 speed transmission. When the Suzuki Samurai came out in 1986 the engine was a 1.3 liter and the transmission was a 5 speed. The differential housing was wider on the Suzuki Samurai by about 3.5 inches over the SJ410. The gear ratio was 3.73 in the Samurai and the SJ410 had a 4.11 gear ratio. But in the 1985 change over year the model that came out was a SJ413 or Jimny 1300 (Asian model) and the rear axle housing was the same width as the SJ410 although the 1985 SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) had the 1300 cc engine and the 5 speed tarns. In 1985 the SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) has a gear ratio of 3.90 for that year only. The rear brake calibers were the same as the SJ410 and the axles and the axle housing was the same width as the SJ410, but the differential carrier is the same as a Suzuki samurai. The only difference is that the 1986 and up Suzuki Samurai has 3.73 gears and the 1985 SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) has 3.90 gears. In 1985 they sold both the SJ410 and SJ413 (Jimny 1300). Iff you have a 1985 SJ413 or Jimny 1300 you would use the Powertrax part number 1510. It is easy to screw this up because the 1985 gear ratio is almost the same as the SJ410, plus the axles and axle housing is the same width and also the brakes in the rear are the same as the SJ410, but the differential carrier is the same as the Suzuki Samurai. An SJ410 with a 1.0 liter and 4 speed would take Powertrax Lockright part no. 1520. Roadless gear was about the ONLY USA vendor that knew this stuff right. This install was more difficult because it was a Suzuki. The locker will totally lock both wheels in low traction situations only. A regular vehicle could not drive away with one tire off the ground. The tire off the ground would just spin and the vehicle would not move. With the locker, as soon a traction is lost, the internal racket locks and both rear tires have traction. If you install one locker you want it to be in the rear versus having the locker on the front wheels where the steering is. This a full time locker. On the trail having lockers on both axles may be a huge advantage in going through mud, sand or snow. But when driving on the streets in the snow, a front locker can be harder to control when you are going around turns and corners. When driving in snow on the roadways with a front locker, you would be better off locking only one hub and locking the other hub in a situation where it may be needed. With the rear locker only you will stay pretty stabile on snowy roadways and you might find that the rear locker may be good enough to get through the snow without using the 4 wheel drive.

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 1 of 4

Installing PowerTrax LockRight, Suzuki Samurai, Part 1 Before you buy a PowerTrax for a Samurai, SJ or Jimny In the USA a lot people are not familiar with the exact changes to the Suzuki SJ's when they changes from the SJ410 to the SJ413, In 1985 , they sold both and SJ410, which was a 1.0 liter engine with a 4 speed transmission. When the Suzuki Samurai came out in 1986 the engine was a 1.3 liter and the transmission was a 5 speed. The differential housing was wider on the Suzuki Samurai by about 3.5 inches over the SJ410. The gear ratio was 3.73 in the Samurai and the SJ410 had a 4.11 gear ratio. But in the 1985 change over year the model that came out was a SJ413 or Jimny 1300 (Asian model) and the rear axle housing was the same width as the SJ410 although the 1985 SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) had the 1300 cc engine and the 5 speed tarns. In 1985 the SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) has a gear ratio of 3.90 for that year only. The rear brake calibers were the same as the SJ410 and the axles and the axle housing was the same width as the SJ410, but the differential carrier is the same as a Suzuki samurai. The only difference is that the 1986 and up Suzuki Samurai has 3.73 gears and the 1985 SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) has 3.90 gears. In 1985 they sold both the SJ410 and SJ413 (Jimny 1300). Iff you have a 1985 SJ413 or Jimny 1300 you would use the Powertrax part number 1510. It is easy to screw this up because the 1985 gear ratio is almost the same as the SJ410, plus the axles and axle housing is the same width and also the brakes in the rear are the same as the SJ410, but the differential carrier is the same as the Suzuki Samurai. An SJ410 with a 1.0 liter and 4 speed would take Powertrax Lockright part no. 1520. Roadless gear was about the ONLY USA vendor that knew this stuff right. This install was more difficult because it was a Suzuki. The locker will totally lock both wheels in low traction situations only. A regular vehicle could not drive away with one tire off the ground. The tire off the ground would just spin and the vehicle would not move. With the locker, as soon a traction is lost, the internal racket locks and both rear tires have traction. If you install one locker you want it to be in the rear versus having the locker on the front wheels where the steering is. This a full time locker. On the trail having lockers on both axles may be a huge advantage in going through mud, sand or snow. But when driving on the streets in the snow, a front locker can be harder to control when you are going around turns and corners. When driving in snow on the roadways with a front locker, you would be better off locking only one hub and locking the other hub in a situation where it may be needed. With the rear locker only you will stay pretty stabile on snowy roadways and you might find that the rear locker may be good enough to get through the snow without using the 4 wheel drive.

Install Greasable U Joints, Suzuki Samurai

Install Greasable U Joints, Suzuki Samurai. The factory U-joints (universal joints) do not have grease fittings and are considered to be permanently greased. But after a while the factory U-joints will dry out and lose their grease and eventually fail. You want to change the stock U-joints (universal joints) before they fail, especially in a 4 wheel drive vehicle that may be undergoing more stresses in rough terrain. The best replacement, aftermarket U-joints (universal joints) will have grease fittings. Being able to grease the U-joints (universal joints) at regular maintenance intervals will greatly add to the life of your U-joints (universal joints). When replacing U-joints (universal joints), make sure that you make the yokes, the drive-shaft and the flanges at the transfer case, differential and transmission to make sure you in install the drive-shaft back in the same positions as at the factory. The drive-shaft has counter weights and is balanced specifically for your vehicle.

Install Heavy Duty Steering Stabilizer, Suzuki Samurai

Install Heavy Duty Steering Stabilizer, Suzuki Samurai. A heavy duty stabilizer is a must for a Jeep or Suzuki Samurai if you install larger tires and it's not a bad idea in the stock configuration if you want maximum stability at highway speeds or when driving over bumpy roads. Old Man Emu's (OME) Samurai steering stabilizer will reduce the effect of wheel vibration and improve the feel, handling and control of your Suzuki Samurai. Installing Heavy Duty Steering Stabilizer will also reduce the aggressive rotation of the steering wheel over rough roads without affecting steering wheel return.

How to Lock the Spare Tire on a Suzuki Samurai

How to Lock the Spare Tire on a Suzuki Samurai. Prevent your Jeep or Suzuki spare tire from being stolen.

Boot Band makes Emergency Throttle Return Spring

Boot Band makes Emergency Throttle Return Spring Emergency repairs using parts on hand.

Saturday, January 24, 2015

Clogged Differential Breather, Location of Trans & Transfer Case Breathers, Samurai

Clogged Differential Breather, Location of Trans & Transfer Case Breathers, Samurai. I show the location of the breathers for the Transmission, Transfer Case & differentials for the Suzuki Samurai. The seals were leaking on the Transmission, Transfer Case & differentials and sometimes a clogged breather could be the cause. In this case one of the breathers was clogged. But you to also check to see if the Transmission, Transfer Case & differential are still functional. After a while the spring inside the breather will rot away and then the rubber check valve will not seal off contaminants from entering the Transmission, Transfer Case & differentials. I am adding AT- 205 re-seal to the Transmission, Transfer Case & differentials as an experiment to see if it stops all the leaks. If not, all new seals have been ordered for the Transmission, Transfer Case & differentials and will be installed, if needed, on a future update.

Suzuki Samurai SJ Leaking Trans, Diffs & Transfer Case

Suzuki Samurai SJ Leaking Trans, Diffs & Transfer Case. I ordered new seal for the transfer case and a new rear seal for the transmission and also new pinion differential seals (front & rear). But before I change out the seals on the transfer case, transmission and front and rear differentials, I am curious to see if the AT-205 reseal will work to completely stop all the leaks in the differentials, transfer case and transmission. If the AT-205 reseal does stop all the leaks completely I definitely will not bother to change the seals in the transfer case and transmission because the transfer case and transmission was completely rebuilt and has very low miles on them. The Jeep has been sitting a while and that is why the seals are leaking versus the seals being worn out.

Before you buy a PowerTrax LockRight for a Samurai, SJ or Jimny

Before you buy a PowerTrax for a Samurai, SJ or Jimny In the USA a lot people are not familiar with the exact changes to the Suzuki SJ's when they changes from the SJ410 to the SJ413, In 1985 , they sold both and SJ410, which was a 1.0 liter engine with a 4 speed transmission. When the Suzuki Samurai came out in 1986 the engine was a 1.3 liter and the transmission was a 5 speed. The differential housing was wider on the Suzuki Samurai by about 3.5 inches over the SJ410. The gear ratio was 3.73 in the Samurai and the SJ410 had a 4.11 gear ratio. But in the 1985 change over year the model that came out was a SJ413 or Jimny 1300 (Asian model) and the rear axle housing was the same width as the SJ410 although the 1985 SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) had the 1300 cc engine and the 5 speed tarns. In 1985 the SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) has a gear ratio of 3.90 for that year only. The rear brake calibers were the same as the SJ410 and the axles and the axle housing was the same width as the SJ410, but the differential carrier is the same as a Suzuki samurai. The only difference is that the 1986 and up Suzuki Samurai has 3.73 gears and the 1985 SJ413 (or Jimny 1300) has 3.90 gears. In 1985 they sold both the SJ410 and SJ413 (Jimny 1300). Iff you have a 1985 SJ413 or Jimny 1300 you would use the Powertrax part number 1510. It is easy to screw this up because the 1985 gear ratio is almost the same as the SJ410, plus the axles and axle housing is the same width and also the brakes in the rear are the same as the SJ410, but the differential carrier is the same as the Suzuki Samurai. An SJ410 with a 1.0 liter and 4 speed would take Powertrax Lockright part no. 1520. Roadless gear was about the ONLY USA vendor that knew this stuff right.

Making -30 F below Side Curtains, Jeep & Samurai

Making -30 F below Side Curtains, Jeep & Samurai Make side curtains for half doors.

Using Structural Rivets on a Samurai or Jeep

Using Structural Rivets on a Samurai or Jeep A heavy duty structural blind rivet gun is one of the handiest tools to have. 1/4 inch rivets are stronger than a spot weld and can be done anywhere. Having a structural rivet tool with you can also be extremely handy if you run into problems and need to make a hasty repair. Installed the rest the rivets and the hood is solid and no longer flimsy. If enough people do this , it will start a trend and then you'd see it as a "dealer appearance package option" on all new Jeeps for $295 extra.. Function over GQ fluff. The "GQ's" will be opting to pay the $295 at the dealer.

Friday, October 17, 2014

Suzuki Samurai How to Oversized Battery for Trail & HHO

Suzuki Samurai How to Oversized Battery for Trail & HHO If you install an oversize battery in a Suzuki Samurai, SJ 413, Jimny, you do want to make sure your use a side-terminal battery because an oversize top terminal battery may short out if it touched the bottom of the hood. i used a group 75 battery, but you may be able to fit in a group 78 side terminal battery for even more reserve battery power. The reason I used a group 75 battery is because I wanted the same sized battery as I use in my other cars. This way if a car needs a battery, I can swap them out temporarily when a situation arises. A Walmart group 75 battery with the 5 year warranty, puts out 550 CCA (cold cranking amps and that is way more than needed for a 1300 cc engine. The price is only $76 and for me is real bargain in having extra battery power. I will be installing an HHO kit on this engine so it will be drawing more amos. It may need a stronger charging system too, but a fresh hi-capacity battery would be smart to do at a minimum when using HHO.

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Suzuki Samurai - Dash Clock Installation.

Suzuki Samurai - Dash Clock Installation. This was a good replacement dash clock for the Suzuki Samurai that I got from Roadless gear. The factory replacement dash clock supposedly lists for $320. This aftermarket replacement dash clock is only $20 plus shipping (from Roadless Gear). It's a simple 3 wire setup that I go over in the video. I would recommend using some grease to install it in the dash because it is a tight fit and difficult to pull out if you need to re-adjust the clock in the back.

Monday, March 31, 2014

Suzuki Samurai -Windshield Wiper Fix.

Suzuki Samurai -Windshield Wiper Fix. This turned out to be an easy fix, but it likely is a common problem on older Suzuki Samurai's A lot of people complain that the wipers on the Suzuki Samurai are slow and mine were actually stuck. At first I suspected the motor then I though it could be rusty wiper linkage. That is what it turned out to be. Using penetrating oil, WD40 and grease I got the wipers working like new again and the wiper speed is as good as it was from the factory. When you install those plastic caps over the wiper shafts, fill them with grease to keep all the water out and everything lubed. The grease will melt on the wiper shaft and keep new rust from forming again.

Saturday, March 15, 2014

Suzuki Samurai,,Installing New Soft Top

Suzuki Samurai,,Installing New Soft Top. I picked up a new Smittybuilt soft top for the Suzuki Samurai. It looks like a good quality top and better than OEM and cost $139 with free shipping. I go over some details on how to install the top easier. I use grease on the snaps and zippers so they don't get stuck. Also, if you are in an extremely cold climate, I used to put some foam around the edge of the soft top where it meets the body to eliminate any drafts. Make sure that front track on the windshield is installed correctly before snapping down everything in the back, or else wind will open up the front edge of the top when you get up to speed.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Suzuki Samurai - Clean out Heater Box of Leaves & debris.

Suzuki Samurai - Clean out Heater Box of Leaves & debris. This is a simple, easy way to clean out the heater box of leaves and debris. After some years, some leaves will accumulate on top of the heater core and then air will not flow past through the fins of the heater core because of all the stuff laying on top of the heater core. I did this job well over 15 years ago, when I had to also change out the cage on the blower motor and it was a time-consuming job. But cleaning out all the leaves and debris from the Suzuki Samurai heater box is easy, if you do it as I show how. You will need to drill out a hole in the plastic duct work Above the heater core. There is a molded line in the duct-work and all drilling needs to be above that line. I used a large shop-vac with a small nozzle attachment and also blew air through the bottom of the heater core at the time the vacuum was pulling out leaves & debris from the top of the heater core.

Saturday, February 22, 2014

Suzuki Samurai -Heater Core Flush w' VINEGAR & misc

Suzuki Samurai -Heater Core Flush w' VINEGAR & misc. I go flushing out the heater core on this video. But I take an extra step. After flushing out the heater core in both directions, I use compressed air to blow out the water in the heater core, then fill the heater core with plain white vinegar. I let the vinegar sit inside the heater core for a good 4 hours, so that it will safely dissolve any remaining deposits, rust or scale inside the heater core, then I finish with using plenty of clean water to flush out the vinegar inside the heater core. This heater core looked very clean because no rust came out at all and the water flowed very good through it. In my case, the problem was a kinked bypass hose the feeds the control valve to the heater core. You need to use a molded hose for the bypass hose. Years ago these were hard to find but now with the internet part for the Suzuki Samurai SJ413 Jimny 1300 can be found easily. I also am going over many other minor details and show a couple small details I did. The details make the difference in reliability. Also Rocky the cat makes a quick appearance and you can see this cat that used to be semi-feral is turning out to be one sweet cat.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Suzuki Samurai - Installing a Toyota carburetor 2 of 2

This is on installing a Toyota carburetor of a Suzuki Samurai Jimny 1300 SJ413 JA51. The Toyota carb works much better than the stock Suzuki carb and can handle steep hills without flooding issues. The carburetor is for a Toyota Corolla 3K-C 1.2L available at: http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=TOY250 78 Toyota Corolla, 4 Cyl. 1.2 Liter with a manual choke This is part two of all the details needed to installed this carburetor. Besides better gas mileage, more lower end torque, and simplicity, the Toyota carb swap on the Suzuki Samurai allows you to use the stock air cleaner and the aftermarket snorkel kits for deep fording. Another advantage you can use the stock hot air duct-work from the exhaust manifold to assist warmup in cold weather and prevent carburetor icing in extreme cold weather. I go over the modification you need to do to the carburetor spacer and also what exact part you need to hook up the stock Suzuki fuel line to the Toyota Corolla carb. You need a 12 mm with super fine 1.0 threads fitting with brake line and then you can hook up the fuel line. Also I go over the exact stud size and spacer to mount the stock air cleaner and where to dimple the stock air cleaner so you can use it on the Toyota Carburetor. The Toyota Corolla, 4 Cyl. 1.2 Liter with a manual choke is 28mm and 28 mm for both barrels on the carb. The stock Suzuki carb is 26mm and 30 mm. This is why you need to blend the spacer plat from 28mm to 26 mm so the fuel mixture flows smoothly from the carburetor to the intake.