Suzuki Samurai - Clean out Heater Box of Leaves & debris.

Suzuki Samurai - Clean out Heater Box of Leaves & debris. This is a simple, easy way to clean out the heater box of leaves and debris. After some years, some leaves will accumulate on top of the heater core and then air will not flow past through the fins of the heater core because of all the stuff laying on top of the heater core. I did this job well over 15 years ago, when I had to also change out the cage on the blower motor and it was a time-consuming job. But cleaning out all the leaves and debris from the Suzuki Samurai heater box is easy, if you do it as I show how. You will need to drill out a hole in the plastic duct work Above the heater core. There is a molded line in the duct-work and all drilling needs to be above that line. I used a large shop-vac with a small nozzle attachment and also blew air through the bottom of the heater core at the time the vacuum was pulling out leaves & debris from the top of the heater core.

Suzuki Samurai -Heater Core Flush w' VINEGAR & misc

Suzuki Samurai -Heater Core Flush w' VINEGAR & misc. I go flushing out the heater core on this video. But I take an extra step. After flushing out the heater core in both directions, I use compressed air to blow out the water in the heater core, then fill the heater core with plain white vinegar. I let the vinegar sit inside the heater core for a good 4 hours, so that it will safely dissolve any remaining deposits, rust or scale inside the heater core, then I finish with using plenty of clean water to flush out the vinegar inside the heater core. This heater core looked very clean because no rust came out at all and the water flowed very good through it. In my case, the problem was a kinked bypass hose the feeds the control valve to the heater core. You need to use a molded hose for the bypass hose. Years ago these were hard to find but now with the internet part for the Suzuki Samurai SJ413 Jimny 1300 can be found easily. I also am going over many other minor details and show a couple small details I did. The details make the difference in reliability. Also Rocky the cat makes a quick appearance and you can see this cat that used to be semi-feral is turning out to be one sweet cat.

Suzuki Samurai -Installing a Toyota carburetor - Final & Tips

Suzuki Samurai - Installing a Toyota carburetor 2 of 2

This is on installing a Toyota carburetor of a Suzuki Samurai Jimny 1300 SJ413 JA51. The Toyota carb works much better than the stock Suzuki carb and can handle steep hills without flooding issues. The carburetor is for a Toyota Corolla 3K-C 1.2L available at: http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=TOY250 78 Toyota Corolla, 4 Cyl. 1.2 Liter with a manual choke This is part two of all the details needed to installed this carburetor. Besides better gas mileage, more lower end torque, and simplicity, the Toyota carb swap on the Suzuki Samurai allows you to use the stock air cleaner and the aftermarket snorkel kits for deep fording. Another advantage you can use the stock hot air duct-work from the exhaust manifold to assist warmup in cold weather and prevent carburetor icing in extreme cold weather. I go over the modification you need to do to the carburetor spacer and also what exact part you need to hook up the stock Suzuki fuel line to the Toyota Corolla carb. You need a 12 mm with super fine 1.0 threads fitting with brake line and then you can hook up the fuel line. Also I go over the exact stud size and spacer to mount the stock air cleaner and where to dimple the stock air cleaner so you can use it on the Toyota Carburetor. The Toyota Corolla, 4 Cyl. 1.2 Liter with a manual choke is 28mm and 28 mm for both barrels on the carb. The stock Suzuki carb is 26mm and 30 mm. This is why you need to blend the spacer plat from 28mm to 26 mm so the fuel mixture flows smoothly from the carburetor to the intake.

Suzuki Samurai - Rustproofing and Undercoat

Rustproofing a car, jeep or truck is actually an ongoing process. It's work and it's too time consuming to do everything at once. You are better off doing things in steps at the same time you wash your car. For any exposed metal on the underside or any place that can be thoroughly cleaned and painted, it is far better to use a high zinc primer and a high quality chip resistant paint, than to spray on some oil that will wash off fast. The paint used for mag wheels (spray cans) is pretty good stuff, but truck bed liner is probably the strongest paint you can get in a spray can. Buying truck bed liner in spray cans is more expensive, but it allows you spray inside areas that are hard to reach with a brush, plus you can easier use a spray can anytime without having to clean spray guns. Killing rust on a car, truck or jeep is on-going so it's better to just do things in sections. For the inside of rockers, doors and quarter-panels, I like to use a high quality spray automotive wax and a little WD40. I like spray liquid automotive wax the best for rustproofing inside panels, because it is totally harmless to paint. Some people use various oils, but they can soften the paint after a while. You want something that slows down rust a lot and also is totally harmless to paint.

How to - Cutting, Bending & Flaring Brake & Fuel Lines

When cutting brake or fuel lines for repairs, you want to use a mini pipe-cutter to obtain a clean cut. In addition to make a clean cut on fuel or brake line to make a good flare, the mini pipe-cutter can get in tight places, such as when you are working under the car. You ca also use a Dremel tool if you are careful, as long as you chamfer the end and make sure it is flat. I had to do this because my very well used mini pipe-cutter just broke. Also when using the pipe cutter use grease on the tubing so the pipe cutter turns easier. For making smooth even bends in tubing for brake or fuel lines the simplest cheapest thing to use is the specially designed springs for bending tubing. You can also fill the tubing with sand and use the springs at the same time. This way there is something both on the inside and outside of the tubing so it will not kink when trying to make tight bends for brake lines, for example. After you get the right bend in the tubing, blow out the lines with compressed air. You don't need any fancy special tube bender to do a good job. Using the flaring tool is easy. But sometimes people can't get a good flare. Some with use brake fluid on the tubing to help get a good flare, but I prefer using grease since grease slides better under pressure and that enables the flaring tool to make a perfect flare.

Suzuki Samurai Air Cleaner Gasket for Toyota Carb modification

Installing a 1973-1978 Toyota carb (for the 1188cc engine) on the Suzuki Samurai is great modification because you will get better gas mileage, better torque, ad be able to run up steep hills without flooding issues. But the problem is using the stock air cleaner, especially if you want to use a snorkel for fording streams. You will need a absolutely watertight seal between the carburetor and the air cleaner. I found this part o Amazon.com. ON-Q / Legrand F2242 2.5-Inch Grommet Ring It is a very thick rubber grommet that is 2.5 inches wide and can be used on the Toyota carb if you open up the rubber grommet wider with a rasp. This grommet also cause the air cleaner to sit a little higher and solves any issues with linkage when using the Toyota carburetor of the Suzuki Samurai.

Suzuki Samurai Gas Tank Clean out & coat & Install 2 of 2

This is a how-to on cleaning out a gas tank that has heavy rusted. I used white vinegar for a week and then neutralized all the vinegar with baking soda and water and then pressure washed the inside of the gas tank. Then I used a quart of RedKote to coat the inside of the gas tank and stop any future rust from occurring. Also for the outside of the gas tank and the skid plate, I used high-zinc rusty metal primer and truck bed liner which would make it nearly impervious to stones chipping the paint and causing rust. Rust is you number 1 enemy. Use heavy grease on all the bolts when reinstalling the gas tank and skid plate to make sure they can be removed easily later on if needed.

Suzuki Samurai - Fixing Side Marker Lights & Interior Light

Suzuki Samurai - Fixing Side Marker Lights & Interior Light. One of the side marker light had a corroded light socket. Since this is actually a Jimny 1300 and not a Suzuki Samurai, parts for this hard to find so I decided to fix the original side marker light. It was just a matter of drilling out the old socket and pressing in and gluing in a new socket with high quality panel adhesive. To make sure everything is waterproof I used a sealant and heat shrink tubing on the back of the socket where the wires go in. Other connections were replaced and I used dielectric grease to keep the water out. Also used heat shrink tubing on any wire that was spliced. The interior light was a simple fix and a common problem. The door jam switches get corroded after a while. They work by causing the ground to complete when the door opens so the interior light comes on. The beauty of the Suzuki Samurai, SJ413 or Jimny is that these jeeps are easy to fix and everything is simple and straightforward. (Just make sure it does not rust out & it will last forever).

Suzuki Samurai - Installing a Toyota carburetor 1 of 2

Suzuki Samurai -Installing a Toyota carburetor 1 of 2. This is on installing a Toyota carburetor of a Suzuki Samurai Jimny 1300 SJ413 JA51. The Toyota carb works much better than the stock Suzuki carb and can handle steep hills without flooding issues. The carburetor is for a Toyota Corolla 3K-C 1.2L available at: http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=TOY250 78 Toyota Corolla, 4 Cyl. 1.2 Liter with a manual choke This is part one of all the details needed to installed this carburetor. Besides better gas mileage, more lower end torque, and simplicity, the Toyota carb swap on the Suzuki Samurai allows you to use the stock air cleaner and the aftermarket snorkel kits for deep fording. Another advantage you can use the stock hot air duct-work from the exhaust manifold to assist warmup in cold weather and prevent carburetor icing in extreme cold weather. I go over the modification you need to do to the carburetor spacer and also what exact part you need to hook up the stock Suzuki fuel line to the Toyota Corolla carb. You need a 12 mm with super fine 1.0 threads fitting with brake line and then you can hook up the fuel line. Also I go over the exact stud size and spacer to mount the stock air cleaner and where to dimple the stock air cleaner so you can use it on the Toyota Carburetor. The Toyota Corolla, 4 Cyl. 1.2 Liter with a manual choke is 28mm and 28 mm for both barrels on the carb. The stock Suzuki carb is 26mm and 30 mm. This is why you need to blend the spacer plat from 28mm to 26 mm so the fuel mixture flows smoothly from the carburetor to the intake.