Differences in Taillight Bulbs 1157, 2057, 2357 and Red colored Motorcycle

When replacing the typical taillight bulb, the 1157, 2057 & 2357 are the same dimensions but are a little bit different in performance. The main difference between the 1157 taillight bulb and the 2057 is that the 2057 draws about 30% less current when using the parking lights (and this is somewhat dimmer). The 2357 is the same as the 1157 when using the parking lights or run lights but much brighter when using the brake or stop light filament of the bulb. On a 1157 bulb the brake light filament last about 1500 hours and the much brighter 2357 brake light filament will last only about 120 hours. But this could be a good brake light bulb to use a old cars that have small taillight lenses, as log as you change the bulb out to a new one every so often. You could use LED taillights, but found many of them to be unreliable unless you buy the expensive stuff, plus it may require other modifications to work with the directional/ turn signals. The 2357 just plugs in and works fine. A car like a 1968 Chevelle may benefit by using a 2357 bulb in the stopping/brake lights due to the small taillight lenses. The problem, I had with the 1985 Suzuki Jimny 1300 (Japanese model JA51) is that the taillight lenses faded out, so they looked too white. Replacement lenses for this Suzuki would have to come from overseas, so the simple easy fix was to use red-colored 1157 bulbs which are easily available from a motorcycle shop. You will probably not find red colored 1157 taillight bulbs in a regular auto parts store, but a bike shop should have them. If you have an old car with faded out taillight lenses, this is an easy fix and will keep you legal and safe. I also have a special brake light flasher that is adjustable for how fast you want to make the brake lights flash. If you have an old car (e.g, 1930's, 1940's and early 1950's) having a brake light strobe under the dash may save you from getting rear-ended. It would not be your fault if you were hit from the rear, but old car parts are getting extremely hard to find, so better to prevent a rear end collision.

Suzuki Samurai SJ413 JA51 Fender Repair & Bodywork 5 of ?

Suzuki Samurai SJ413 JA51 Fender Repair & Bodywork 4 of

More rust killing of the 1985 Suzuki Samurai Jimny 1300 SJ413 JA51 (not sure what it is - probably a Japanese Jimny 1300 JA51). I am using 3M body panel adhesive to glue on a new patch panel and also to fix very minor rust pinholes on the front valance. The 3M panel adhesive is not like Bondo at all and 3M panel adhesive is totally impervious to water. Most new cars today have quarter-panels and rocker panels glued on with panel adhesive versus the old method of welding. So the panel adhesive is almost as good as welding but is also much less prone to rusting at the seam or joint. For some fast but good prep work I used compressed air to clean the surfaces, then some light sand-blasting and more compressed air. Then I followed that up with brake-clean and then compressed air. You do want to leave some rust when using the Chassis Saver because it grips a lot better. If you prep the area a lot and make it too smooth, the Chassis Saver could fail. So actually if you do less work the Chassis Saver will grip better on clean rust. These Suzuki Samurai Jimny 1300 SJ413 JA51 often have rust by the battery tray. Even though this Jeep was maintained, dirt and leaves will accumulate in the battery tray area and cause a rust out. The solution is to clean it out and use Chassis Saver. And then I made a heavy duty 12 gauge plate for the battery tray. I will be using an over-sized Group Size 75 side-terminal battery in the Suzuki Samurai Jimny 1300 SJ413 JA51. I am using the post adapters for the side terminal battery. To stop the problem of chips in the paint from off-road use, I will use truck bed liner on the front valance, the front edge of the hood and around the wheel wells and the bottom of the fender and the bottom rear of the quarterpanel and tailgate. These areas get lots of rocks, dirt, stones and mud throw up and that is where paint will chip and rust will start. Most of this Suzuki Samurai Jimny 1300 SJ413 JA51 will be painted gloss black. I plan to use Dupont Nason which is fine for a Jeep if you get a good price of $99 for a gallon with the catalyst and reducer.

Suzuki Samurai SJ413 JA51 Fender Repair & Bodywork 3 of ?

The most important consideration is stopping all the rust, no matter how small. Because rust always starts small and grows into big rust problems. I am using the Chassis Saver on every small part to kill rust and stop all future rust. I found that using a small glass far , with heavy grease on the threads of the lid of the jar is the best way to keep Chassis Saver ready for many minor touch-ups of any rust. I made the bottom piece of the fender and welded and pop-riveted it to the piece of the fender that shows. Pop-rivets are fast, strong ad easy. And pop-rivets hold almost as good as a spot weld, especially if the rivet is hammered with a hammer and dolly to really compress the rivet. Repairs with pop-rivets are fine for small areas of floors of minor areas that don't show. As long as you seal the seam and rust proof everything, a pop-rivet repair will last indefinitely.

The Right-Way to Remove Loosen Rusty Bolts.

The Right-Way to Remove Loosen Rusty Bolts. The worst thing about working on old car, trucks or jeeps is loosening/removing the rusty frozen bolts and rusty nuts. As long as there are no rubber parts or anything flammable nearby the best thing to use use to remove frozen rusty bolts or nut is heat from a propane torch. You can use an acetylene torch also but you have the danger of overheating the metal and melting it. The heat from the propane torch is just right to free the rusty bolts up. Heat will work to free up frozen bolts much better than any penetrating oil. Btw, (if you have the time) Kroil is about the best stuff there is for penetrating the threads on rusty bolts. Another trick with using heat from a propane torch is that is the perfect amount of heat to remove bolts or nuts installed with Loctite Red. Loctite Red is typically used for a permanent installation. You need heat to break down the Loctite Red if you want to remove the nut or bolt. The heat from a propane is perfect for that. A heat gun may not be hot enough and an acetylene torch could melt things too much. The other trick for the worst stuck fasteners - nuts and bolts is to use reverse drill bits and easy-outs. If you use heat and then try the easy-out, you will often have no problem when using them combined. Again use the propane because you will not melt the steel. Sometimes just drilling with the reverse drill will un-thread the broken off bolt that is stuck inside. Also sometimes drilling off the head of a bolt will relieve a of of the grip and that helps when using the easy-out.

Suzuki Samurai SJ413 JA51 - Fender Repair & Bodywork 2 of ?

Troubleshooting Suzuki Samurai Horn - A Common Problem.

Troubleshooting Suzuki Samurai Horn - A Common Problem. A very common problem on the Suzuki Samurai SJ413 SJ410 Jimny JA51 is the horn not working. This is likely because the horn is not tucked in behind the bumper or in the fender out of the weather as with most cars. It's right in the grill so it gets exposed to weather and typically the horn itself breaks after a while. The first step in troubleshooting the horn is to jump a 12 volt positive source and a ground for the other connection to see if the horn itself is broken. If so, there are plenty of good aftermarket horns available at a very inexpensive. The other common problem is at the horn rig itself on the steering wheel. Typically this area can get corroded after a while especially in harsh climates where you are four wheeling with the top off. You will need a steering wheel puller to get at the horn ring and clean up all the corrosion. Then coat everything with WD40 to help keep the corrosion from coming back. Before you pull off the steering wheel mark the position so you install it back the same as it was before. Then use some Loctite blue and torque the steering wheel bolt to 18 to 28 ft lbs.